gnupic: Re: [gnupic] PCB blues - any suggestions?
Subject:
Re: [gnupic] PCB blues - any suggestions?
From:
niv levy ####@####.####
Date:
30 May 2005 18:23:59 +0100
Message-Id: <20050530172329.14121.qmail@web32802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
hi,
One correction on my part - by referring to an Al
sheet I meant Al foil (i.e. cooking supply stuff) -
sorry.
the printer i used was an old HP Laserjet 4.
niv
--- David McNab ####@####.#### wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Thanks to all who replied to my earlier post re PCB
> art transfer.
>
> I've made at least 12 attempts today, to transfer
> the artwork onto the
> copper, with no success.
>
> Artwork is at
> http://www.freenet.org.nz/pcb-bottom.ps.gz, in case
> anyone's interested. Board is 65mm square, and the
> tracks are 18mil.
>
> With each attempt, I've tried different combinations
> of:
>
> - transfer medium:
> - blue transfer film
> - 170gsm inkjet gloss photo paper
> - heat of iron
> - ranging between 110-130degC (220-250 degF)
> - duration of heat
> - 3-25 minutes
> - removal of transfer medium
> - peeling slowly/gently
> - soaking in water and peeling/rubbing
> - with and without a sheet of aluminium (from a
> soft drink can) under the iron
>
> Printer I'm using is an HP 2550L Color Laserjet.
>
> Worst case is that whole areas of the board fail to
> transfer, and/or
> entire pads and vias going MIA.
>
> Best case is that all transfers ok, except for
> around 4 broken tracks
> and 4-12mm missing from 2-3 other tracks.
>
> Track size is 18mil - can't go much bigger because
> it would drastically
> increase the number of unrouted connections.
>
> Can anyone suggest what I might be doing wrong?
>
> Should I buy photo-laminated boards, fluoro lamp,
> developer and try the
> photo method?
>
> Could it be that the HP Color Laserjet printer uses
> a toner not suitable
> for PCB artwork transfer? Should I print onto plain
> paper, then photocopy?
>
> I'm getting very tempted to give up on artwork
> transfer entirely, and
> use Eagle to create standardised veroboard (strip
> board) layouts - an
> option supported by:
>
> - perfect holes are already in place
> - I got a hand-drill kit with a zillion
> cutting/shaping bits, that
> can very quickly make the required track cuts,
> even erase whole
> lengths of track, and drill any needed bigger
> holes
> - time needed to cut/strip/solder the top-side
> connecting wires is
> recouped by the time saved from not needing to
> etch or drill
>
> Sorry to have rambled on for so long. Anyone got any
> thoughts on all this?
>
> --
> Cheers
> David
>
>
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